Wednesday, September 22, 2010

Night Sesh Saves Local Derelict

I don't know what it is about life changes, but they are hard for me. It doesn't matter what it is, school, relationships, new town, new job, it always takes a while for me to feel like i fit in. In the past surfing has been a good bridge for those gaps. So yesterday I decided to pack my surfboard to my institute class in San Marcos, just in case I felt like doing some night surfing afterward. I kind of got nostalgic driving to Palomar College, my first semester after my mission I would drive to Palomar with Randy and Wendy and we'd all taken institute classes there. This time it was just me and my surfboard.

Sister Morgan's lesson was brilliant. It was about the gift of revelation and ways we can qualify it and ways we receive it. 8:30 came around, class got out and I had no where to go but home or to O'side Pier for some night surfing. What a night of surfing it was! Paddling out it didn't seem that amazing. No one was out, except a few fishers on the pier. After a few minuets a set came in. My eyes hadn't really adjusted yet, so I just turn around and guessed I was in the right spot. Fortunately it one of those waves that looks like it's going to break, but gives you a few extra seconds. I dropped into a 4 footer and rode all the way into the beach. The whole night the waves were like that, breaking about halfway out to the pier bait shop, perfect rights with peaky A frame take-offs. The inside section got really hollow and you had to pump down the line to stay in the curl. The waves let you surf them both fast and smooth - I felt like Rob Machado surfing Trestles all alone. It was incredible.

I surfed till about 11. There was red tide, so the waves were breaking blue, which is always pretty cool to see. It was a beautiful night. I don't know why surfing is so therapeutic, but I just feel really great right now, in spite of everything else. Maybe sometimes being alone and being content is what we need to be healthy enough to move on. If you have a psychological explanation, let me know.

Also, I found this article on night surfing in the LA Times. Pretty interesting.

No comments: